There are those who say that around the world people are more alike than they are different, but although we expected to agree with that we were surprised to learn that the adage is not necessarily so. We discovered that Europeans tend to look at the world differently in ways that seemed sometimes slow and hidebound to in-a-hurry Americans like us. Sometimes we were surprised at the underlying opinions on America and on some of their opinions about the different ethnic and national groups within Europe itself. On the other hand we saw some beautiful sights and gained perspective about our ancestors and the people who immigrated to America. It was a fascinating experience and one we're so glad we did.
I'm going to do a few blogs to wind up "Innocents Abroad" because the "Innocents" are now comfortably back in the Houston suburbs in the good old USA. Many people, places and events stand out in my mind, and I want to reflect on them and share my thoughts.
The pictures are all from earlier blogs, but maybe they didn't get much attention. At any rate, these are the things that stand out in my memory.
First up: the Village. We both grew up in large cities and had no concept of life in a village that's smaller than our subdivision. Klingenbach has 1,200 residents, no stores, four restaurants, a semi-pro soccer team, an elementary school and a church with infuriatingly loud bells. Few of the residents over 40 speak English. My German definitely didn't hold up to their combination German/Croatian dialect.
The village of Klingenbach
The border between Austria and Hungary just one kilometer from Klingenbach
A guardtower at the border, on the Hungarian side of course. I wonder if it's a replica since you'd think over 20 years of winters since the end of the Cold War would have caused an original one to deteriorate.
We crossed this Cold War border hundreds of times when we went to Hungary to shop.
Our flat in Klingenbach. Our flat (the three windows on the right upstairs) was over Burschi's restaurant/bar.
I absolutely adored our double-paned windows. You see these all over central Europe, and they're so handy. They open either out like in this picture or just at the top. The only downside is no screens.
One of the most annoying (along with the lack of a garbage disposal) things - the five required trashcans: garbage, paper, plastic, metal and glass - beyond aggravating.
I felt transported back decades as far as laundry went. I had such a hate/hate relationship with our washer/dryer. It took 3 or 4 hours to get just a small load done, and everything had to be ironed. My U.S. friends were quite amused at picturing me doing that!
At least I had a pretty view out the back of the flat while I spent hours at the ironing board. Cranking up country music on the Itunes on the computer and gazing out at the vineyards made it tolerable.
I had a love/love relationship with this tiny air conditioner. It's a real Rube Goldberg device - you have to vent it to the outside (and tape around it to prevent heat and bugs from coming in) and get a rubber hose to drain into a bucket. But it blessedly cooled our tiny bedroom. The rest of the flat could be boiling in the short-but-heinous Austrian summer, but our bedroom was comfortable.
This was our car during our time in Austria. While you certainly don't want to look a gift car in the mouth, I have to say this Citroen is malevolent. It turns the CD player, radio or the GPS off or on as it pleases. It hesitates when you press on the accelerator but only sometimes ... which is disconcerting when you need to speed around a traffic circle or get trampled. It will raise itself up and down a little. It's the weirdest car we ever had. You notice you've never seen a Citroen dealership in the U.S., and now you know why.
The blue building is Hotwell where Bob worked. It is literally across the street. The smaller building to the right is where we both got our hair cut.
These are Bob's favorite little sheep we found in a store in Eisenstadt. We mailed them home - and carefully wrapped them - but the postal service destroyed all but one of them trying to look inside them.
You never forget the village is in a rural area. Crops include fruit orchards, sunflowers and corn, but the predominant crop is grapes. Burgenland is the primary vineyard area of Austria.
Our first Hotwell friend, Ljuba, and her family own several rows of grapes. This is Ljuba with her father, Mathias. The families own rows here and there, abutting other families' rows. Extremely specific locations give you certain kinds of grapes, and they all want to grow several varieties.
This is just for show. I went along on a day when they picked grapes and took them to the winery, but my participation took the form of photography (and two blogs) and watching. But this looks good, doesn't it? Almost as if I were actually working!
They picked this many grapes from just a couple of rows. Different varieties are picked on different days.
This is the partyingest place I've ever seen. Parties and festivals all year long, and Burschi's Bonanza Bar (down two floors and perpendicular from our flat) is the scene of many of the parties.
Bob at Schoko's during Kirtag, a mid-summer three-day village festival
Hotwell owns two small apartment buildings in the village where some employees live. Many parties are held at the two houses. Outdoor cookout parties are held here at the Lower House.
The outdoor kitchen behind the Lower House
Where they cook the party food
At Vladimir's (from Romania) party, I saw a whole lamb on the spit for the first time.
And at Dragan's (Serbian) party, I saw a whole pig on the spit, also for the first time.
I may be too American, but I think I prefer to get my chops and ribs at the store. I kind of didn't enjoy seeing the whole animal like that.
The village band is a part of every event in Klingenbach. They play at every event and in all the processions.
Here they are at Kirtag.
On May Day
Leading the procession during a village wedding
This sight used to crack me up - you know you're in the country!
A pretty winter sight
Looks like a Christmas card
I'm from Houston so I'm used to heat, but this? Come on! This is Austria...in June! Now you know why I had such a thing for our little AC.
I have to say though that although the summer can be hot, it is short. On August 23rd, the high dropped 30 degrees to the 60s and never warmed up again.
More next time.
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