The word 'Prague' is an old Slavic word meaning ford which makes sense since Prague was founded at a crossing of the Vltava River. It was first settled in the Paleolithic Age, then ruled/controlled/seized/conquered, fought over, etc. by the usual suspects. Additionally, it has been a merchant capital, Europe's largest slave market, and the site of heresy trials, defenestrations and Jewish pogroms. Catholic-Protestant conflicts dominated a large part of its history during which the city's population was reduced by two-thirds.
Much of the city was decimated by a great fire in 1689 and the population by a bubonic plague epidemic in 1713-14. It was a capital of numerous empires, including the Holy Roman, and after Austria-Hungary's defeat in World War I, the new country of Czechoslovakia. This new country was renamed 'Bohemia' by Hitler and absorbed into the Third Reich. Prague didn't suffer too much during World War II although the assassination of Nazi Reinhardt Heydrich (one of the main architects of the Final Solution) led to German reprisals, and the city was bombed in 1945 by the U.S. The Soviet army moved in to 'liberate' the city but then stayed for over forty years. It wasn't until the Velvet Revolution of 1989 that Czechoslovakia could celebrate its freedom. Soon the Czech and Slovakia areas split in a kind of international divorce. So now, for the first time in a few thousand years, Prague is the capital of an independent Czech Republic.
We stayed at the Golden Wheel Hotel on Nerudova Street in Old Town. The hotel's origins date back to the 14th century. One of the things that amused us is that from the ground floor to the next one up, you take one [tiny] elevator, then get out and walk up two steps and around a corner. You then take another [even tinier] elevator up to the other floors.
The Golden Wheel Hotel
By the front door of the hotel
Pictures of unbelievably narrow and steep Nerudova Street
Old Town is a huge tourist attraction.
All kinds of shops and restaurants line the street. I frequented a 'few' of the shops.
It's not hard to imagine what it must have been like in the past. Navigating up these steep, twisting lanes in the dark cannot have been easy.
These cobblestones are hard to walk on, especially when it's rainy like it was when we were there.
The Grand Hotel Europa figures in many spy novels. It was fun to see it in person although since our tour was about to start, I didn't have time to go inside. The hotel is located in Wenceslas (as in the Christmas carol, "Good King Wenceslas") Square and is a model of art nouveau style. Built beginning in 1903, it enjoyed its golden age in the 1930s.
We had a very good guide for our tour. She was fluent in Czech, German and English and gave all the info in each language in turn. The following pictures are of various buildings I found interesting.
At one point we had to slow down because a politician in an open car in front of us was campaigning. Some things are the same everywhere!
The last part of the tour was of Prague Castle, the largest coherent castle complex in the world at 70,000 square meters, or 753,473 square feet for us Americans. From anywhere in Old Town, you can see Prague Castle looming over all.
Bob had an epiphany in Prague. Frequently in Europe over the last year, it has struck both of us what a difference there is over here between the historical haves and have-nots. We noticed it first at Schonnbrunn Palace in Vienna, then later at nearby Burg Forchtenstein and Hampton Court Palace in London. It culminated for Bob while we were wandering around the narrow twisting streets in Old Town. It was cold and misty which made for tough going uphill on the slippery cobblestones, and anytime we looked up there was Prague Castle looming over all.
Castles were built for opulence but also for defense so naturally they were built on high ground. Bob kept commenting on how the "peasants" going about their hard-working lives must have been conscious of the castles and their owners occupying the high ground and enjoying their "divine rights" at the expense of the poor who supported them. Of course that's true everywhere, but it's just so visible and inescapable here. We of course had studied Karl Marx but never understood his allure or that of the French or Russian Revolutions. It was always so easy to deride such things, but after seeing these palaces and castles, we now understand why the common man was so determined to be free of this yoke. The division between rich and poor was so extreme it provided a fertile bed for socialism. After all, we in America fought a revolution to be free of tyranny. The spirit and dream of America is even dearer to us now, and we're both so thankful our restless great-great-something-grandfathers decided to leave Europe.
Two views of the Cathedral of St. Vitus
Building of Prague Castle began in 870, and other building took place during the next several centuries. Of course it was damaged by wars and fires, and the last major rebuilding was carried out by Empress Maria Theresa in the late 18th century. Today the site contains four religious edifices (a basilica and convent, a cathedral, a church and a chapel), four palaces, three halls, five gardens, towers and other buildings.
Following historical tradition, Prague Castle is currently the seat of the president and government of the Czech Republic.
This is the Old Royal Palace with Vladislav Hall, the largest secular space in medieval Prague.
Prague Castle also has a changing of the guard.
The ceremony was conducted by fresh-faced young soldiers.
One of the other palaces
The Basilica of St. George - there is a large monastery behind the church
Approaching the complex wall that overlooks the city
Looking down on the red tile roofs of Old Town from the castle complex wall
Directly below the wall is a large restaurant.
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