Chapter 89 - Prague

After our visit to London, Kate, Colin and I flew to Vienna where Bob picked us up; then the four of us drove to Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic. It has the most beautiful Old Town I've ever seen.

The word 'Prague' is an old Slavic word meaning ford which makes sense since Prague was founded at a crossing of the Vltava River. It was first settled in the Paleolithic Age, then ruled/controlled/seized/conquered, fought over, etc. by the usual suspects. Additionally, it has been a merchant capital, Europe's largest slave market, and the site of heresy trials, defenestrations and Jewish pogroms. Catholic-Protestant conflicts dominated a large part of its history during which the city's population was reduced by two-thirds.

Much of the city was decimated by a great fire in 1689 and the population by a bubonic plague epidemic in 1713-14. It was a capital of numerous empires, including the Holy Roman, and after Austria-Hungary's defeat in World War I, the new country of Czechoslovakia. This new country was renamed 'Bohemia' by Hitler and absorbed into the Third Reich. Prague didn't suffer too much during World War II although the assassination of Nazi Reinhardt Heydrich (one of the main architects of the Final Solution) led to German reprisals, and the city was bombed in 1945 by the U.S. The Soviet army moved in to 'liberate' the city but then stayed for over forty years. It wasn't until the Velvet Revolution of 1989 that Czechoslovakia could celebrate its freedom. Soon the Czech and Slovakia areas split in a kind of international divorce. So now, for the first time in a few thousand years, Prague is the capital of an independent Czech Republic.

We stayed at the Golden Wheel Hotel on Nerudova Street in Old Town. The hotel's origins date back to the 14th century. One of the things that amused us is that from the ground floor to the next one up, you take one [tiny] elevator, then get out and walk up two steps and around a corner. You then take another [even tinier] elevator up to the other floors.

The Golden Wheel Hotel


By the front door of the hotel


Pictures of unbelievably narrow and steep Nerudova Street


Old Town is a huge tourist attraction.


All kinds of shops and restaurants line the street. I frequented a 'few' of the shops.


It's not hard to imagine what it must have been like in the past. Navigating up these steep, twisting lanes in the dark cannot have been easy.


These cobblestones are hard to walk on, especially when it's rainy like it was when we were there.


The Grand Hotel Europa figures in many spy novels. It was fun to see it in person although since our tour was about to start, I didn't have time to go inside. The hotel is located in Wenceslas (as in the Christmas carol, "Good King Wenceslas") Square and is a model of art nouveau style. Built beginning in 1903, it enjoyed its golden age in the 1930s.


We had a very good guide for our tour. She was fluent in Czech, German and English and gave all the info in each language in turn. The following pictures are of various buildings I found interesting.







At one point we had to slow down because a politician in an open car in front of us was campaigning. Some things are the same everywhere!


The last part of the tour was of Prague Castle, the largest coherent castle complex in the world at 70,000 square meters, or 753,473 square feet for us Americans. From anywhere in Old Town, you can see Prague Castle looming over all.


Bob had an epiphany in Prague. Frequently in Europe over the last year, it has struck both of us what a difference there is over here between the historical haves and have-nots. We noticed it first at Schonnbrunn Palace in Vienna, then later at nearby Burg Forchtenstein and Hampton Court Palace in London. It culminated for Bob while we were wandering around the narrow twisting streets in Old Town. It was cold and misty which made for tough going uphill on the slippery cobblestones, and anytime we looked up there was Prague Castle looming over all.

Castles were built for opulence but also for defense so naturally they were built on high ground. Bob kept commenting on how the "peasants" going about their hard-working lives must have been conscious of the castles and their owners occupying the high ground and enjoying their "divine rights" at the expense of the poor who supported them. Of course that's true everywhere, but it's just so visible and inescapable here. We of course had studied Karl Marx but never understood his allure or that of the French or Russian Revolutions. It was always so easy to deride such things, but after seeing these palaces and castles, we now understand why the common man was so determined to be free of this yoke. The division between rich and poor was so extreme it provided a fertile bed for socialism. After all, we in America fought a revolution to be free of tyranny. The spirit and dream of America is even dearer to us now, and we're both so thankful our restless great-great-something-grandfathers decided to leave Europe.

Two views of the Cathedral of St. Vitus




Building of Prague Castle began in 870, and other building took place during the next several centuries. Of course it was damaged by wars and fires, and the last major rebuilding was carried out by Empress Maria Theresa in the late 18th century. Today the site contains four religious edifices (a basilica and convent, a cathedral, a church and a chapel), four palaces, three halls, five gardens, towers and other buildings.

Following historical tradition, Prague Castle is currently the seat of the president and government of the Czech Republic.





This is the Old Royal Palace with Vladislav Hall, the largest secular space in medieval Prague.


Prague Castle also has a changing of the guard.


The ceremony was conducted by fresh-faced young soldiers.






One of the other palaces


The Basilica of St. George - there is a large monastery behind the church


Approaching the complex wall that overlooks the city


Looking down on the red tile roofs of Old Town from the castle complex wall

Directly below the wall is a large restaurant.

Chapter 88 - Shrines, Part 2

The first blog on shrines was done last February, and as I said then, we have seen numerous shrines around Burgenland. Many of them are small, homey family shrines spotted in rural fields or at the edge of villages. Others sit in village cemeteries. Some have places of honor in village squares or in front of churches. Frequently, they have a plague motif which shows the traumatic effect the recurring plague epidemics had on the people. We've seen dozens of them, but I want to show a variety of types rather than just one after the other that are similar.

This shrine is located near the cemetery in Klingenbach.


The inscription, like many in this Croatian area of Burgenland, is in an old Croatian dialect, presumably dedicated to Mary as many of the shrines are, dated 1810.


We found this shrine near the side of the road in a sunflower field outside nearby Siegendorf.


This shrine stands just outside Saint Margarethen, a village northeast of Eisenstadt.


This fancier shrine lies in the village center of Stottera, in central Burgenland; it's dated 1849.

Like many of the village shrines, this one was built to thank God for the ending of bubonic plague epidemics. These plague columns usually depict saints who were thought to help save people from plague.

This side depicts St. Rochus (1295-1327) of Montpelier, France. The son of a governor, he renounced all his worldly goods. He is invoked against plague and other tribulations and is frequently seen on this kind of shrine, usually with a dog.


This side depicts St. Rosalia (1130-1166), the patron saint of Palermo, Sicily, whose family claimed descent from Charlemagne. Her body was found during a plague epidemic when she supposedly saved the people of Palermo. She is usually depicted as a young woman holding a cross, book or skull and wearing a crown of roses.


This side shows St. Sebastian (ca 256-ca 288) of Milan, a captain in the Praetorian Guard, who was killed during Emperor Diocletian's persecution of Christians. From a distinguished family, he was married with children. He and his brother refused to sacrifice to Roman gods, converted many Romans to Christianity and were arrested. He was shot with arrows but survived; then after haranguing Diocletian, he was beaten to death. He is usually depicted tied to a post and shot through with arrows. He is considered the protector of plague victims and of soldiers.

I don't get some of these. For instance, if St. Rosalia died of plague, how does she protect against it? St. Sebastian doesn't seem to have done things very intelligently; it's like he wanted to be a martyr.

This simpler shrine lies on the outskirts of Stottera.


This lovely shrine in the village of Trumau near Vienna is dated 1755.


This shrine is located in the town of Wiener Neustadt at the edge of a park.


Holy Trinity columns were erected to celebrate the church and the faith; they frequently emphasized plague motifs as does this one in the nearby village of Trausdorf. They were very common in Europe, especially in the 17th and 18th centuries and became one of the more visible features of Baroque architecture.


The inscription [roughly] reads: "Trinity Column. In 1838 Franz Piller Muller established this monumental column. On a strong post and an octagonal base lie the figures of the holy Erasmus, St. Francis, King Stephen and St. Rochus. Between them are labels in German, Croatian and Hungarian languages. On an octagonal column a powerful Trinity group is enthroned."


Saint Erasmus, also known as St. Elmo, (died ca 303) of Croatia is the patron saint of sailors, intestinal ailments and women in labor. He was reputedly tortured, retortured and eventually martyred for his continual preaching of the Gospel.


Saint Francis Xavier Navarre (1506-1552) was a missionary who died of plague in China. He supposedly raised people from the dead.


Here again is St. Rochus (1295-1327), a patron saint of plague and of dogs.


Saint Stephanus, King Stephen I of Hungary (ca 967-1038), was the first king and founder of the Kingdom of Hungary. He was renowned for strengthening Christianity, and his right hand is a relic in Budapest today.


We found this Marian Column in nearby Zagersdorf. Marian Columns are monuments built in honor of the Virgin Mary, usually in thanksgiving for the ending of plague.


This elaborate shrine in nearby Wulkaprodersdorf also has a plague motif.


And one more from Hungary. We found this shabby little shrine at the edge of the cemetery at St. Michael's Church in Sopron. Pax is the Latin word for peace. I wonder if many people sat on this bench before the shrine and prayed for peace. There's been precious little in this part of Europe.

Chapter 87 - Random Village Sights

I've taken a lot of pictures in the village recently - nothing earth-shattering, just the commonplace things of daily living. So I thought I'd share a few.

In many movies and books there's a quintessential scene of a kid swiping an apple from Old Man Grumpy's apple tree and then having to run for his life while being chased by the mean, stick brandishing, old man. Growing up in Houston, I never had the chance to do that (because ... well, I really don't have any idea why they don't grow in Zone 9). So one day while Bob and I were strolling back from a delicious dinner at Ivanschitz's, I spotted an apple tree just behind a rotting fence - yes, right there on Main Street (called Odenburger Strasse in Klingenbach)! I'm a person who never breaks the rules, but I had a sudden impulse and pulled a ripe apple from a low hanging branch. I felt so deliciously guilty (yeah, I know, it's sad; I just never took anything except a pen from work once).

And here's the booty!


Looking out our back window one day, I was startled to see this!


I've rarely seen a double rainbow.


Coming from Houston, I'm used to bugs. But we're on the second floor (first floor for Europeans), and I definitely didn't expect to see this mantis on the ledge outside our living room window.


This guy reminds me of the movie, "Arachnophobia," and seeing him gave me some of that! He really looks like he wants in, doesn't he?


Didn't mind this sweet little guy. He looked like he was drying his wings preparing for his maiden flight (I guess a 'he' can have a maiden flight).


You know how in many places people say if you don't like the weather, just wait a minute? Well, Klingenbach could have written the book on that! We have a digital thermometer in our kitchen; the sensor is on a wire just outside the window. Here's the temp one June afternoon. I was glad to get to Houston in July where it was only 95.


This was the temp one afternoon around August 23rd or so.


One week later, on August 31, this was the temperature! This is at 1:15 am.


And this is at 1:39 pm. In August!


I'm not used to dressing like this in the summer. I had to haul out the cold weather clothes.


Although we have fantasies about barbecue and Mexican food, there are some dishes we really love over here. At Schoko's Restaurant here in Klingenbach, these are our favorite dishes. Bob likes their chili served in an iron skillet.


And I love their penne, with arugula and cherry tomatoes, and shrimp wrapped in potatoes kind of like hash browns on long strings. Bob's beer and my wine spritzer are tasty, too!


Another of our favorites at Schoko's is Janusz. The nine-year-old Hungarian Vizsla rules the roost. Janusz naps a lot ...


... greets and 'talks' to us ...


... then goes outside to survey his kingdom from the top of the stairs. He also loves the owners' two young daughters; we've frequently seen him walking with them.

He never begs either, unlike any of the dogs we've had.

I've seen this sight several times, but it never ceases to amuse me. It's not uncommon to stop for a cold one on the way home from work ... even when your work is in the fields.


I'm enclosing this picture to show the bank across the street from us. And look at that tree. I've enjoyed seeing it through the four seasons.


Austria prides itself - and brags a lot - about being so green. They're nauseating on the subject of recycling - witness us having to have five trash cans in the flat. But I have to say I don't altogether buy it; we've seen so many of the villagers getting in their load of wood for the winter, and that's a lot of trees.

So imagine my surprise when I saw this last week!


They cut down my lovely tree and a couple of others.


They moved quickly ...


... and I thought looked a little guilty about it.


We don't use this bank even though it's across the street - it doesn't even have an ATM machine! We've been inside to pay an insurance premium, and while I was watching other people in line reach the teller, he went to deep drawers full of account cards. They're not on the computer at all! So maybe this renovation is inside as well as out. And it does explain the tree cutting although I don't see why they couldn't have done it with the tree.


They use this Austrotherm on top of the pressed board. It looks like styrofoam, but it supposedly insulates, too. It's attached with plaster.


You can see the blocks of it here. I imagine they'll paint over that and then hang a new sign.