Monday, November 23, 2009

Chapter 63 - Klingenbach History, Pt. 6 ... Zenith of Austria-Hungary

The fabulous 19th century was the zenith of Austria-Hungary. Powerful and influential, ascendant and triumphant, it controlled much of European affairs.

Europe in 1800

Klingenbach (always marked by the red dot) was snugly placed in the middle of the Austro-Hungarian empire. The Ottoman Turks held a huge swath of southeastern Europe, but they never advanced north again. The Prussian empire and German duchies were a threat to a lot of people but not to Austria-Hungary - they were more or less buds. So Klingenbach itself was safe for at least the next century.

The biggest threat to Austria-Hungary in 1800 was Napoleon, and boy, was he a big one! He led France to its greatest triumph and almost singlehandedly conquered most of Europe. Austria-Hungary was part of the allied coalition that included Britain, Russia, Prussia, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Netherlands and Ottoman Empire (curiously, the only time Austria was ever aligned with Britain and Russia in a war).

Napoleon destroyed two Austrian armies, completely humbling Austria-Hungary. He defeated them in battle after battle, notably Ulm (in southern Bavaria's Swabia), Austerlitz (in modern-day Czech Republic) - considered by historians to be his greatest victory - and Raszyn (in central Poland). This is a depiction of the Battle of Austerlitz.


He occupied Vienna in 1805 and used Schonbrunn Palace as his headquarters.

Because of well-founded fears that Napoleon planned to take the title of Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire to add to his collection, Francis II formally dissolved the empire in 1806 and established the Empire of Austria. The Holy Roman Empire had lasted for 1,000 years, mostly as an ineffectual collection of states, but its end was especially ignominious.

Of the more than one million Austrian soldiers who served, about 300,000 were killed or missing. Aside from Britain, Austria was the most persistent enemy of France. This is the monument to Austrian soldiers in the Napoleonic Wars.


This is a flintlock barrel pistol from 1800, the type Austrian officers would carry.


Napoleon shaped future European history, including that of Austria. His dream to institute a unified Europe ended, not to be revived until after World War II. In the end though, it wasn't Napoleon who made Europe over into his image; it was the Austrian, Metternich.

This is Klemens Wenzel, Prince von Metternich (1773-1859).

A vain lothario, Metternich was an Austrian politician and statesman, one of the most important diplomats of the era. He was the archetypal practitioner of 19th century diplomatic realism. He developed the concept of balance of power which brought modern world history into being. By orchestrating a delicate dance between the European powers, he maneuvered Austria into the position of arbiter of Europe.

After the Battle of Waterloo in 1815 when Napoleon was totally and finally defeated, Metternich hosted the Congress of Vienna.


He led the redrawing of the map of Europe, insuring that Austria - even though she had lost so many battles - got a substantial chunk. Note the dark yellow on the map - those lands were added to the already large empire of Austria-Hungary.


For the next 30 years Metternich dominated the foreign policy of Europe. He was quite a reactionary and was finally driven from power in the liberal revolutions of 1848. No statesman has been so praised or reviled. Secretary of State Henry Kissinger idolized him; he wrote his PHd. dissertation at Harvard on Metternich.

On the peaceful home front life continued as it always had. Fashion and jewelry were important of course. This was the fashion in 1807.


This necklace is from 1800.


This lovely parure of jewelry was given by Napoleon to his second wife, Austrian princess Marie Louise, in the early 1800s.


This is a typical farmhouse of the period in Burgenland (the Austrian state where Klingenbach is located). This one was built in 1754, but I've seen many like it still in use today.


This is fashion in 1820. They're moving away from the chemise style to a slight
cut-in at the waist, preparatory, I suppose, to the cinched-in waists and crinolines shortly to become popular. This is probably the last comfortable dress for 100 years.


Soon afterwards a baby was born who would have the third longest reign in European history. Franz Joseph of Austria was born in 1830 and what a paradox he was.

Like Victoria of England, he was the symbol of the 19th century on the continent. He was a harsh absolutist who then compromised with the Hungarians, a benevolent man of simple tastes who couldn't grasp modern ideologies, a ruler who occupied the Balkans and annexed Bosnia outright, an emperor who confidently embarked on a collision course with Russia, a man who strongly believed in duty and honor and his right to rule. He adored his wife and son but tried to control their every move. He was quite popular with most national groups and eventually led them into national disaster.

And now for a fairy tale. Once upon a time there was a beautiful young princess. She married an older man (with a disapproving mother) to become a queen. And she lived miserably ever after. A century-and-a-half before Princess Diana there was Elisabeth of Austria, and their lives followed sadly similar patterns.

This is the best known painting of Elisabeth of Austria (1837-1898) which shows her famous hip-length hair.

Elisabeth was a duchess in Bavaria. Franz Joseph's mother wanted him to marry Elisabeth's older sister, Helene, who she thought would make a suitable queen. Elisabeth accompanied her sister to the meeting, and Franz Joseph fell in love at first sight with the 15-year-old Elisabeth, known as Sisi, and refused to marry anyone but her. Sisi (I've also seen it as Sissi) said later she was forced into the marriage and resented it all her life. Although he adored her, the marriage was stormy, and Sisi spent most of her life in restless travel around Europe. She was famous for her beauty, fashion, diet, exercise, supposed lovers and her long hair. She spent several hours daily on her beauty regimen and stringent exercise to maintain her 20-inch waist. There were murmurs about her extreme slenderness, and modern doctors say she was probably anorexic. She wasn't interested in court protocol or intrigue but loved the people, especially the Hungarian half of the empire. The only positive result of her reign as empress was the eventual admission of women to the University of Vienna.

This fashion was common at mid-century.


Austria-Hungary was the most powerful nation in central Europe. The double-headed eagle is the heraldic symbol of the empire.


This is the sceptre, orb and crown (made in 1602) of Imperial Austria.


This is a mid-century Austro-Hungarian flag.


This is the Compromise Flag of 1867. The green on the bottom row recognizes Hungary as part of the empire.


This is Sisi in 1867 in her regalia as Queen of Hungary where she was most popular.


This later flag recognizes both nations as equal partners in the empire.


These are dresses from 1879.


Continuing with depictions of completely uncomfortable shoes, here is one from 1880 with a metal ring underneath - called a clog - that kept the shoe above the mud.


This is a later, more formal portrait of Empress Sisi.


After their first child died as a toddler, Franz Joseph and Sisi had a son, Rudolph, and two more daughters. They both adored Rudolph who was the heir to the throne.


Rudolph was typical of adored European princes - that is to say, arrogant and stubborn. He married Princess Stephanie of Belgium as his father ordered, and they soon had a daughter.


The young couple didn't love each other and drifted apart before providing the all-important heir to the throne. Rudolph became enamored of 17-year-old Baroness Maria Vetsera and embarked on a stormy affair with her. Here is the young Baroness.


Rudolph and Maria ended up dead in the royal hunting lodge at Mayerling. Rumors swirled around the event. Supposedly, Rudolph shot her and then killed himself in remorse. The Catholic Church gave a dispensation for Rudolph's supposed mental illness so he could be buried in hallowed ground. Some years later when their bodies were exhumed, no bullet holes were found, but there were extensive marks on both bodies indicating strong struggle and vicious beating. The conspiracy stories began, and the mystery surrounding their deaths has never been solved.

The death of Rudolph shattered Sisi and Franz Joseph; neither ever got over it. The loss did end their estrangement, and although they didn't resume living as husband and wife, they embarked on a fond correspondence. He publicly had a long-standing mistress, and Sisi supposedly had a series of lovers.

In 1898 when Sisi was visiting Geneva, she was stabbed in the heart with a narrow file by an anarchist. She didn't even realize she'd been stabbed until her servants undressed her. Her tight corset had kept the wound from bleeding until it was removed; then she rapidly bled to death.

Sisi wouldn't allow any paintings to be done of her after the age of 30. There are precious few photographs either. I'm not sure when this was taken, but it is obvious that she is older than her paintings - although I think she looks great.

Sisi would have been just a historical footnote - like most European queens - but there was something about her. Call it charisma or whatever you like, she captured the hearts and imagination of her people, and she was wildly popular even though she never did anything useful. There is almost a Sisi cult in Austria today, probably contributed to by the three Sisi movies made in the 1950s starring Romy Schneider.

As the 20th century dawned, Austria-Hungary was peaceful and powerful.


Vienna was the fourth largest European city (after London, Paris and Berlin) and the cultural center of central Europe. The arts flourished.

A Vienna Cabinet Plate from 1900


A Waltz Ball at the Rathaus (City Hall) in 1904


A depiction of one of the famous Vienna cafes in 1900


Fashion in 1900


Bridesmaids in early 1900s. This is proof that bridesmaid's dresses have never been designed to be worn again.


Everything comes to an end. Here is sad and lonely Franz Joseph at age 85.


These are the tombs of Emperor Franz Joseph and his beloved Sisi and Rudolph in the Imperial Crypt in the Capuchin Church in Vienna.


The era was over. Austria had existed in many forms - with expanding and shrinking borders - for centuries. It had won and lost wars; it had led Europe. As it slumbered in late 19th century decadence, no one could have predicted the calamity to come in the catastrophic 20th century.

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Chapter 62 - More Parties

I thought I'd do a lighthearted blog entry about some of the fun events we've attended. This is the partyingest group of people I've ever met! They love to celebrate everything. We've taken pictures at many of the events.

For birthdays the person throws his own party, usually around lunchtime in the office. He/she offers drinks and snacks, and everyone drops by to greet, eat and toast.

Bob at his party


This is what we served at Bob's party.


Michael, the company's attorney


Zarko and Andrea at his party


Dragen celebrates at his party with Yu Mei and Bob. She manages the Beijing office.


Chombe (on left), with Spica and me, held his party at the Lower House.


Guests at some of the parties












Karin (back row, second from left) hosted a party to celebrate her recent wedding. The highlight was getting to see the pictures of the event on her computer.


Dragen hosted a party just to celebrate life. This is the first time I've ever seen a whole pig on a spit. Quite delicious!


Here I'm trying to forget that Meg once collected cute little pigs. I'm just trying to think about bacon and ham.


Vladimir hosted a party at the Lower House to celebrate his new flat.


This was the first time I've ever seen a whole lamb on the spit, a favorite tradition at parties over here. It was quite tasty.


Visiting consultant Alberto from Rome shows his favorite quaff.


Mijo and Kreso, two of Hotwell's owners and co-founders


People chat ...


and get more convivial as the party goes into the wee hours.


Like children everywhere, the kids congregate together.


Soccer games are opportunities to socialize. At this game Spica tried to explain the finer points of soccer to me (hopeless effort - I'm addicted to American football).


Goran's son, Sasha, plays on a junior team for Klingenbach.


Spica and Svetlana's niece, Ivana, was visiting from Serbia.


We actually did watch some of the game.


Yu Mei and I chatting at another soccer game.


Liliana (on right) from Venezuela and her visiting sister, Laura, at the shower for Liliana's new baby due next month.


Wedding and baby showers aren't held in Europe so this was the first baby shower for everyone except Liliana, Laura and me.


It was fun to play shower games. I won two of them, but then I've had lots of practice!