Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Chapter 38 - Forchtenstein Castle, Part 2

Continuing with our tour of the castle that was never defeated, we come to the main reason for its current fame - the armory and weapons collection. Room after room of old muskets, body armor, spears and knives, equipment, helmets, uniforms, insignias, cannon and cannonballs, shot - whatever an army used, they have it at the burg. There were many rooms that displayed body armor, and I didn't notice till I was doing the blog, but apparently we didn't get any pictures of them. It wouldn't do any good without something to show the scale, but we were struck by the small size of the armor. The vast majority of them looked like they would fit someone my size or smaller; none approached Bob's size. You read that people are taller and larger today, and here is proof. As we wandered through the many, many rooms, we were of course impressed by the large numbers of artifacts. Obviously, I wouldn't put pictures of all that on the blog so I just tried to offer a sampling.

Please note that some of the pictures are fairly dark (even after I've brightened them) because they don't allow flash photography. Some pictures we had unknowingly used our flash before we were told.

This is a display of old muskets (ca. 1600) and helmets.
Some of the muskets still have bayonets attached, and I
saw knicks on some of the bayonets. I didn't want to
think about how those knicks got there.


Bottom middle of picture - ankle restraints; center - neck
and arm restraints; center left - long sword used for
executions (also has knicks on it).


This is the execution chair used for 200+ years at the burg.


These are saddles. Bob recently learned that when his great-
great-grandfather came to America from Prussia, he was a
saddler and leather worker. So it was interesting for him to
see the type of work his ancestors may have produced.


This is a remnant of a regimental battle flag. During one of
the battles against the Turks, a sergeant fought against over-
whelming odds to save the flag from capture. He received a
decoration for his courage which is also on display at the burg.


This is one of the many rooms of muskets.


Officers have always had it a little better. This is
a tent of an officer.





Like all European aristocrats, the Esterhazys loved hunting. There was room after room of their hunting trophies. Also included were several landscape style paintings of hunting parties.

Here is one of many cases of antlers.


I guess the real deer heads have rotted because this is
a fake head. Bob liked the hawk in the picture.


Daddy used to take me hunting, and I shot a javelina
in East Texas once. This boar reminded me of that.


This is a typical flight of unevenly worn stairs. It
takes about 5 of these to get to another story. I
felt like all I did was climb up and down.


This is an outside door leading into the kitchen area.
Note the small bell on the upper right.


This is the spiral staircase from hell. It leads
round and round, down and down, forever, to the
kitchen area. The steps were very narrow, and the
handrail didn't feel entirely stable. This really
freaked me out.


One of my sons-in-law is a firefighter, and I'll bet he is
really happy he's doing it in the modern era. This manual
water pump is the way they fought fires in the burg. It's
designed to be carried by four men. Bob estimated it holds
about 40 gallons. At eight pounds per gallon plus about 100
pounds for the pump itself, that's considerably over 400
pounds the (much smaller, remember) men had to carry. And
this was after filling it with buckets from the nearby cistern.


Yeah, it's a postcard picture. Ours were way too dark to
show up. Without the ability to use flash, there just isn't
enough light from the two very small windows. They built fires
on top of the giant hearth and roasted chickens and meat on the
spits above. The brick floor is very uneven. It must have
miserably hot in there during the summertime cooking over a big
roaring fire.


Close-up of the copper pots and pans.


Bob got all excited by this. It's a pressure pot that's over
200 years old. The guide toggled the regulator. One of Bob's
favorite ways to cook is with his pressure cooker back home.


Now we come to the castle well dug in 1637. We didn't take any pictures of the whole well structure because that's when it was storming. The well is located inside a small building that looks almost like a summerhouse. There's an interesting story behind the well's construction. All the workers were brought from Italy for the renovation and expansion of the burg, and the well workers were apparently the best of their profession. The well is 461.5 feet deep and perfectly and smoothly constructed. The stones lining the well interior are as smooth as if they had been done by machine. Imagine how hard it must have been as they dug down, shoring up with stone as they went. They had been promised they would be returned to Italy when they finished their work, but for some reason - probably because they were so good and/or because no one cared about the feelings of "lowly" workers - they were never allowed to return home. They were sent to other sites to dig more wells.

This picture shows the top of the well and the lower part
of the huge drive wheel.


This shows the axle. There was a huge chain that wrapped
around the axle. Two men walked in the drive wheel, and
as they stepped up, the wheel rotated down, wrapping the chain
around the axle, which pulled the buckets of water up. I hope
this makes sense - Bob explained it to me, but something may
have been lost in translation from him to me.


This is the floor around the well. I wonder if the "P" on many
of the bricks refers to Prince Paul Esterhazy, the ruler when
the well was constructed.


You can't see very clearly, but as you look down the well,
you can see how perfectly each stone aligns with the next.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Chapter 37 - Forchtenstein Castle, Part 1

Burgenland means "land of castles," and we saw one of Austria's greatest on Sunday. The huge fortress lies on the eastern slope of the Rosaliengebirge Hills and overlooks the Wulka Valley and the Hungarian Plains. Its position is so impregnable that it's the only Austrian castle the Turks were unable to seize during their invasions of 1529 and 1683. It is six kilometers from the nearby town of Mattersburg which was populated during Roman and Longobard times. The walls in the original part of the burg are 40 feet thick. Workers had to haul the huge stones in large wagons pulled by six oxen up a twisting, winding road.

With such an advantageous location, there has been a fortification on the site since ancient times. After the original was torn down in 1294, the Count of Mattersdorf built the first part of the current castle with a 150-feet-high keep in the early 14th century. After the title failed due to lack of a male heir, ownership passed to the Habsburgs in 1450 and in 1622 as a gift to Nikolaus Esterhazy (1583-1645) from Emperor Ferdinand II. Nikolaus fortified the castle and imported builders and construction workers from Italy. To pay for it all, Nikolaus, who was a member of a relatively poor, minor aristocratic family, married a rich childless widow which made his fortune. He wasn't merely a dilettante, however; he was an excellent diplomat and personally led troops in 15 battles against the Turks. He was named Palatine (representative of the Hungarian King) and a Knight of the Golden Fleece.

His third son, Paul, who loved theatrics and originally wanted to become a priest, inherited the title after his older brothers died. Paul (1635-1713) was the one who finished the renovation and furnished the burg with much of its treasure. He married two rich women in succession and had 26 children, of which only a few survived to adulthood. After his death in 1713, no noble family ever lived in the castle again. They preferred to live in the more luxurious Schloss Esterhazy in Eisenstadt 13 miles away.

Forchtenstein became what it is most famous for today - the largest armory and weapons collection in Central Europe, army headquarters and military post, and a repository for machines, exotic animal preparations and the secret Esterhazy treasure vault. When Austria and Hungary were separated after World War I, the Esterhazy's family's lands were split between the two countries. The financial records remained at Burg Forchtenstein, and the family records were taken to the Hungarian Federal Archive in Budapest. The secret of the treasure vault was kept until after World War II when the vault was discovered. The contents of the vault are now on display in the burg.

This is such a large place, and we have a lot of pictures. We took a guided tour of part of the castle; the guide spoke German, but we had an English brochure. Then we walked through the rest of the open rooms on our own with an English brochure. Bob was disappointed that the tower isn't open to the public, but I was relieved. I had enough trouble just driving up there and looking out from the parapet. Going up another 150 feet didn't appeal to me, but if it had been open I would have felt obligated. One of the things I'm doing is trying everything while we're in Europe. People who know me know how hard that is! And I've vowed to eat everything in the food category which is a total other story. At any rate, I'm dividing Forchtenstein into three blogs.

View of the castle from village of Forchtenstein.


Getting closer.


Yeah, you're right. Bob didn't take this one. It's from
a postcard, but I love the sunset colors on the burg.


At the castle. I don't know what those brightly-colored
structures are, but they look like deer stands.


We haven't been to any historical site in Austria that
doesn't have ongoing restoration. Look how steeply the
grounds slope down at the moat. If enemy soldiers were
able to get this far, they would have an incredibly steep
hill to climb at the end. And the defenders would be
shooting arrows at you, heaving things, firing muskets,
throwing hot oil, any number of unpleasant measures. And
many moats had stagnant water in them and disgusting things
like sewage, offal and refuse.


I'm at the beginning of the bridge leading to the main gate.


The main gate. There used to be a drawbridge.


One of the many paths inside the castle grounds.


Neptune's fountain in the main courtyard.


Gate to an arched passageway.


Cannon inside the arched passageway.


Note the spears on the left wall.


Path to the parapet.


The whole wall facing the direction the Turks would come
from is dotted with these small portholes. Some are close
to the ground, others are higher with small stone ledges
beneath them - all designed to allow a kneeling archer
to have a good vantage point. The castle is fortified all
around of course, but it looks like more is concentrated
on the eastern side. Notice it's wet. It was hot when we
got there and again when we left, but while we were there it
stormed and the temperature dropped at least 20 degrees so
we got wet and chilled, then hot again.


View of the Hungarian plains. Imagine you're a Turkish
soldier slogging your way across those plains. You look
up and see that castle, and you have to think to yourself,
"@#%$! We have to climb up there?" You can see why the
castle never fell.


View of the village.


The stairs leading down from the parapet.


Entrance to an inner courtyard.


The arched gateway to the courtyard is covered
with beautiful frescoes. Here is the ceiling. The
crocodile was brought from Egypt in the 1700s and faces
the Turks. It is thought to protect the castle from
evil, and history had showed them their main threat
came from the Turks.


On the wall inside the arched gateway, there are frescoes
of Roman emperors. Look carefully at this one, from right
to left are Julius Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and Caligula.


This is the inner courtyard.


This equestrian statue is inscribed from 1687.

Friday, July 3, 2009

Chapter 36 - Franciscan Church, Eisenstadt

The Franciscan Church and monastery on Haydngasse in Eisenstadt was founded in 1386 by Archbishop Johann Kanizsal. In 1529 the Turks destroyed the church (along with much of eastern Austria), and it lay in piles of rubble for 100 years. In 1629, after victory in the Battle of Lackenbach, Count Nikolaus Esterhazy had the church rebuilt in the baroque style. A year later the church was consecrated to the archangel Michael and given to the five-year-old Franciscan convent. Today the former monastery contains the diocesan museum, and in its east wing lies the neo-gothic crypt that holds the tombs of the Esterhazy family.

The massive and beautiful main door of the church.


The front of the church.


The main altar is a renaissance altar made by Italian
masters with ornate stucco decorations that go back to
the original building period.


A close-up view of the main altar. The rococo pulpit
was built in 1725. The relief represents St. Francis'
fish and bird sermon.


On the gallery is an 18th century Haydn organ.


The next three pictures are of a beautiful side altar.
The flat affect of the painting provides an almost
medieval feeling.







Two views of the side of the church.




Two views behind the church.


Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Chapter 35 - Birthday Party

What fun to have a party when you turn 40! Nebojsa (pronounced Nesh-ko) turned 40 recently and held a party to celebrate it last weekend. The crowd gathered again in the Hotwell Upper House (the apartment building on the uphill, or south, end of town). (The Lower House apartment building on the north end has the outdoor kitchen where outdoor parties and barbecues are held.)

Nebojsa, the birthday boy


Sigma catered the party and put on quite a spread.


The birthday boy gets to go first.


The adults are riveted to the soccer game, but
the kids are just mildly interested.


An animated show captures the kids' rapt attention.


Kreso and Tania.


The bar is always a busy place.


Bora and Spica.


Milijana and Combe.


Nebojsa's wife, Margit, and son, Daniel.


Nebojsa, Marija, Daniel and Margit.